“紡鄉(xiāng)染娘”花費上百萬,讓草木染被世界看見
將荷葉自池塘里摘下,用手反復(fù)揉搓,讓紗布與汁液充分融合,稍等片刻,一塊黃色的紗巾就出現(xiàn)在段惠的手中。

圖為用荷葉染出的紗布。 李太源 攝
“別看過程很簡單,實際上有很多講究,需要用開花時的荷葉,還要注重揉搓的手法?!倍位菥従徶v道。
55歲的她是保定市級非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項目高陽土布草木染技藝傳承人,在她的草木染文化園里,如今種著蓼藍、荷花、紅花、板藍根、海州常山等百余種植物。

圖為段惠在采摘植物。 李太源 攝
這些植物經(jīng)過采集、萃取、浸泡、染色、反復(fù)染等工序后,再輔以夾纈、灰纈、蠟纈等染色技藝,就變成了一塊塊色澤亮麗、花紋獨特的布段。
“不同的植物適用不同的染色方式,有生染、發(fā)酵打藍染法、熱染或熱萃取冷染,以及柿染等。”段惠拿起一塊藍色棉布向記者介紹道,像板藍根經(jīng)過發(fā)酵后,就能擁有這種深藍色的染液。
穿著水墨色衣服的她,穿梭于棉花圖博物館內(nèi),就各個展品侃侃而談。少有人知道,段惠出生于紡織世家,其曾祖父曾赴法勤工儉學,學習現(xiàn)代紡織工業(yè)技術(shù),歸國后在天津創(chuàng)辦制襪廠。改革開放后,其父親又重操舊業(yè),開啟了紡織生意。
受家庭氛圍影響,段惠一直對紡織抱有濃厚的興趣。2012年的一次出國經(jīng)歷,讓她接觸到了植物染,自此一發(fā)不可收拾,回來就開始翻閱古籍學習?!鞍菘梢匀军S綠色,茜草可以染粉色,紅花可以染紅色,原來植物染出的顏色可以這么漂亮。”
后來,她又趕赴國外學習,按照學到的知識一遍遍實驗,最終把博物館裝扮成了五彩斑斕的世界。

圖為段惠介紹展館設(shè)計。 李太源 攝
據(jù)段惠透露,這么多年下來,其在非遺上已投入上百萬。“為尋找海州常山驅(qū)車600多公里,跑到北京門頭溝翻山越嶺找凍綠,很多人可能覺得我傻,畢竟前期很多投入是沒有回報的,但因為喜歡就會愿意做這些東西?!?/p>
隨著接觸時間的增長,段惠也發(fā)現(xiàn),對草木染感興趣的人很多?!懊褡宓募词鞘澜绲?,不少外國人喜歡這種傳統(tǒng)工藝。河北大學的一個外國留學生玩過后,專門加了我的微信,希望把同學帶到這里?!?/p>
為了讓這項傳統(tǒng)技藝更好地傳承下去,段惠還開通了短視頻,把扎染過程錄成視頻發(fā)布到網(wǎng)絡(luò)上,借“互聯(lián)網(wǎng)+非遺”模式對非遺技術(shù)實現(xiàn)“活態(tài)傳承”。
“一個柿染短視頻收獲48萬的觀看量,‘00’后助手用板藍根染出的漢服,色如煙雨江南,獲得滿滿好評?!边@給了她極大信心,“希望把非遺技藝傳播給更多的人?!?/p>

圖為“00”后助手用板藍根染出的漢服。 李太源 攝
除了線上傳播,據(jù)段惠介紹,棉花圖紡織博物館也將為孩子以及紡織非遺愛好者提供特色的研學服務(wù),還會為周邊留守老人、婦女及靈活就業(yè)人員提供免費的草木染技藝培訓,并讓她們參與到文創(chuàng)產(chǎn)品制作中?!拔覀円矔召徶苓吙h鎮(zhèn)農(nóng)作物的廢棄物,如板栗殼、核桃皮、洋蔥皮等用做染材,打造特色草木染鄉(xiāng)村經(jīng)濟。”
和草木結(jié)緣,為非遺癡迷,段惠用自己的十余年,書寫了一段“紡鄉(xiāng)染娘”的傳奇經(jīng)歷。(記者 謝藝觀)
?。▉碓矗褐行戮W(wǎng))
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